BMW 5-Series E39 528i SE Touring Auto - Breaking

All Parts Available:
  • Multifunction Steering Wheel
  • Auto Gearbox
  • Electric window motors
  • Electric "Memory" seats, mirrors and steering wheel.
  • Beige Leather interior (no rips) and door cards
  • Carpet, Boot carpets
  • 16" Alloys with Pirelli P6000 tyres
  • automatic air conditioning (climate control)
  • all parts available - email for full list
  • Sorry, not breaking doors/glass
    until Interior is sold email to go on our waiting list
  • no cracks in bumpers
  • See our other auctions here
  • SE model with a/c etc.
  • Built August 1998
  • Registered Sept 13 1998 "S" reg
  • "M52" 2.8 litre petrol straight 6
  • Steptronic Auto
  • Biarritz Blue
  • Beige Leather
  • 209,000 miles
  • Full Service History
  • 2 owners from new
  • well cared for
Breaking 1998 BMW E39 528i SE Touring Auto, fBMWsh
Reason for ScrapOverheat
Damaged PartsEngine Block threads, cylinder head
email for full list

Front Bumper

The important bits...

An undamaged bumper like this one will have good mounts at the side (pics 5 and 6).  This mount allows the bumper to "flex" slightly in a front-to-rear motion without damaging the actual mounting steel which is a part of the inner wing. 

We have a scratch on the offside quarter (I remember it well, it was in a particularly tight car park and of course I was in a hurry and on the phone).  This is highlighted in pic #3.

The heavy bit is the forged alloy "header" the runs the width of the bumper.  It is this that attaches to the bumper mounts that emerge from the body.


Tools required: medium flat-blade screwdriver (6-8mm blade width).  A massive Torx bit for the bumper mounts (the same one as for the driver and passenger seats and seat belts).  An 8mm socket - preferably on an electric screwdriver if you don't want to be there all day scraping your knuckles.

Pics 1 and 2 show the predictable bits - chock the rear wheel and jack the car up gently, remove the roadwheel and this gives you a nice view of the wheelarch liner.  The lower front of the liner is a separate item, and is fixed to the arch liner and the bumper.  This is held in by rather nice 8mm hex-head "self-tapping" bolts with massive panel washers.  Retain these (no matter how rusty they appear to be) as you will need these again later.  There's also one quarter-turn screw through the engine undertray that connects into the arch liner.  It's best to take off the whole undertray.

Some folks (myself included) have added a non-BMW screw to hold the inner edge (just below the air duct) to the inner arch moulding.  Once again a self-tapper is fine for this - just don't forget to remove it and retain for later.

These pics show how to remove the right pieces.  There are two "prise-out" pins that push into the bumper, these are shown in pic#2 as they went back onto my red car.  This is not an easy business as they don't typically want to come out. It's best to use a large flat-bladed screwdriver, but be careful to protect the plastic of the bumper with thick cardboard before levering.  You can lever the whole pin (including sheath) at first, then the sheath with retract as you release tension, leaving the pin more easily accessible.  I found a "bicycle spanner" was the best for removing pins, once again with thick cardboard to protect the paint.  As you can see in pic#2, the pins don't need to come all the way out.

Once these are removed the small black grilles pull off easily.  The foglight screws are then accessible if you need to remove these.  Whether you are removing these or not, you will have to disconnect the wiring, so make sure you get this and push the wiring back clear of the bumper so that it doesn't get snagged when removing the bumper.

You then have access to the galvanised pin (you need the Torx bit for it).  simply unscrew this all the way until it disengages from the bumper "header".  You will need to pie on the ground to access this properly, so it's best to lay some odd carpet on the ground under the bumper - for your comfort and to help keep the bumper from being scratched.

Do the same on the passenger side, then make sure you've got all the screws out of the front lower wheelarch liner where it interfaces to the bumper.

The bumper will then come off towards the front with a sharp tug.  It's important to have somewhere soft and grit-free to place your bumper once you have it in your hands, otherwise it can get damaged. If you have headlamp washers, you will need this to be in front on the car directly under the bumper.

The headlamp washers connect via a single rubber hose to the driver's side of the car.  Lay the bumper on your carpet and then you can disconnect the white hose coupling.  You will get wet so have a bucket handy to catch the majority of the water (otherwise you'll spend the rest of this job lying on a sodden carpet).

Once you've got it off your car will look like the pictures below:

Foglamp wiring

Washer Jet connection

Air Intake

Air intake removed

Arch liner (offside)

Notice the wiring for both fog lamps dangling from below the headlamps.

There are various other bits of plastic moulding that aid the airflow into the engine, make a note of these and remove (as they fall off easily).



As they say in all the best manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal.  Get someone to help you place this onto the car, as the last thing you want is a scratched wing or bumper.

General Notes on our car

In accordance with eBay rules, when you let us know that you want an item, we will remove it from the car and then post it on eBay under a "buy it now" auction. We will also email you with the eBay id number to let you know that the item has been put up for auction.

Please take action quickly to avoid disappointment, we cannot be held responsible for others buying the part that you wanted!


Shipping is by courier for heavy or bulky items, however small parts may be posted by Royal Mail. We weigh and measure every item (after packing) to ensure that you pay a fair price for the shipping.

You may of course collect from us, we are in Hampshire, close to Junction 8 of the M3. For security reasons, we do not disclose our address until we have received your full contact details and have received payment.

Heavy items (engines, transmission, large suspension items) will be loaded onto a pallet which carries a 75 charge (up to 500kg), maximum dimensions 1.2m x 1.2m

Terms and Conditions

We do our best to accurately describe the item and its condition.

If we have failed to accurately describe, we will refund your purchase on receipt of the goods within 14 days of our shipment to you.  All our pictures are very high resolution, use them best benefit so you're sure of what you are getting.  Don't expect things like new, these are USED - if you want "as-new", contact your BMW dealer.


Paypal is best, it takes all the hassle out as regards billing and allows you the flexibility of using credit card or debit card. For large/heavy items that wish to be collected, we will take cash on collection subject to a 50 deposit by PayPal.

Payment must be made within 3 days of auction close, with contact established via email or telephone. Failure to pay will result in the item being re-listed.

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